I used to camp with a Hennessy Ultralite Backpacker in the Midwest and now my coworker and I are planning some weekend hammock camping trips around Lake Geneva. He's new to hammocks and I'm brushing up after a long break, so I've been reading through the Explorer Deluxe threads here to get reacquainted. Are Hennessy kits still worth buying or have newer brands taken the lead in terms of weight and setup speed? We're both looking for something that packs small and holds up in spring weather. Do you have any feedback on newer suspension systems or budget-friendly alternatives?
Back in the trees after a long break
- Thread starter Cactuar6
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potterh3ad
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I used a Hennessy Explorer Deluxe for years while camping in the Sierra foothills. It worked well in all kinds of weather. Lately, I switched to a Kammok Mantis for weekend trips. It's lighter and the straps are easy to use.
If your friend is just starting out, Wise Owl hammocks are a good choice. They don't cost much and are simple to figure out. Spring near Lake Geneva sounds great for camping.
If your friend is just starting out, Wise Owl hammocks are a good choice. They don't cost much and are simple to figure out. Spring near Lake Geneva sounds great for camping.
gngnemstyle_
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Did you consider Blackbird XLC?
@potterh3ad
The recommendations for the Kammok Mantis and Wise Owl provide a starting point for my research. I wasn't familiar with either of them. When you mention the Kammok straps are easy to use, are you referring to a specific type like a daisy chain or a whoopie sling system?
@gngnemstyle_
Hadn't considered the Blackbird XLC. I'll add it to my list of options to research.
The recommendations for the Kammok Mantis and Wise Owl provide a starting point for my research. I wasn't familiar with either of them. When you mention the Kammok straps are easy to use, are you referring to a specific type like a daisy chain or a whoopie sling system?
@gngnemstyle_
Hadn't considered the Blackbird XLC. I'll add it to my list of options to research.
cougarmeat
Well-known member
The Kammok "Python" straps are daisy chain. They are easy - just clip your hammock to the appropriate loop with a carabiner. But ... as daisy chain options go, they are a bit heavier than current options. That's a plus and a minus. The plus is, it's easier to negotiate the loops - they aren't as tight and are easy to grab. The minus is, a little extra weight and the loops provide about a 5 to 6 inch increment (jump). That was a little too much for me so I made a 6-inch amsteel loop I can fold over in the Python loop, giving me a 3-inch adjustment. But I used that 6-inch loop increment, just as it was, for a long time.
Lighter options (like DutchWare sells) are sold by the foot and are just two lengths of lighter fabric with triple-stitched 3-inch loops.
Another thing about the Python straps is that they have a "tree" end and a loop end. That is, the loops don't run from one end of the chain down the full length. There's about a 2.5 ft tail at the tree end, with the idea that the tail length will be wrapped around the tree anyway. But if it's a skinny tree, or the hammock needs to be attached right near the tree (like for a day hike resting setup with no tarp), the loops on the tree end may start too far away from the tree. The easy solution is - just reverse the daisy chain. Wrap the "loop" end around the tree, and you'll have loops starting right at the tree. This is one of those things that is obvious when you see it, but difficult for me to describe with words.
I played with the whoopie sling system. It was fun making my own slings. Note, if you "get into" hammocks, you'll soon learn to weave your own Amsteel loops, dogbones, soft shackles, Whoopie slings, etc. But ... they are a little fussier. And in cold, rainy weather, messing with the bury isn't fun. And you get to learn to tie a Marlin Spike Hitch at the tree. Be sure to add the weight of that tree webbing when comparing setups. And you'll need some toggle (stick, cylinder) to put in the hitch (or just use a carabiner). And above all, remember to put the Whoopie loop on the knot, NOT on the toggle.
If I were alone, I might look at a lower weight setup. But it would be just for fun. The convenience, ease, and security of a carabiner in a daisy chain loop, for me, wins over an ounce or two. Especially because I'm often setting up for others and I don't want to lie awake at night wondering if a whoopie sling knot has slipped down on the toggle instead of staying behind the marlin spike hitch.
Another option would be webbing and a buckle. It provides the continuous adjustment of a whoopie sling, with the locking security of a carabiner (especially if you back it up with a half-hitch on the webbing tail).
Lighter options (like DutchWare sells) are sold by the foot and are just two lengths of lighter fabric with triple-stitched 3-inch loops.
Another thing about the Python straps is that they have a "tree" end and a loop end. That is, the loops don't run from one end of the chain down the full length. There's about a 2.5 ft tail at the tree end, with the idea that the tail length will be wrapped around the tree anyway. But if it's a skinny tree, or the hammock needs to be attached right near the tree (like for a day hike resting setup with no tarp), the loops on the tree end may start too far away from the tree. The easy solution is - just reverse the daisy chain. Wrap the "loop" end around the tree, and you'll have loops starting right at the tree. This is one of those things that is obvious when you see it, but difficult for me to describe with words.
I played with the whoopie sling system. It was fun making my own slings. Note, if you "get into" hammocks, you'll soon learn to weave your own Amsteel loops, dogbones, soft shackles, Whoopie slings, etc. But ... they are a little fussier. And in cold, rainy weather, messing with the bury isn't fun. And you get to learn to tie a Marlin Spike Hitch at the tree. Be sure to add the weight of that tree webbing when comparing setups. And you'll need some toggle (stick, cylinder) to put in the hitch (or just use a carabiner). And above all, remember to put the Whoopie loop on the knot, NOT on the toggle.
If I were alone, I might look at a lower weight setup. But it would be just for fun. The convenience, ease, and security of a carabiner in a daisy chain loop, for me, wins over an ounce or two. Especially because I'm often setting up for others and I don't want to lie awake at night wondering if a whoopie sling knot has slipped down on the toggle instead of staying behind the marlin spike hitch.
Another option would be webbing and a buckle. It provides the continuous adjustment of a whoopie sling, with the locking security of a carabiner (especially if you back it up with a half-hitch on the webbing tail).
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I've mostly used daisy chains so far but I didn't realize how much adjustability Whoopie slings offer. I'm still figuring out what works best for quick weekend setups, so I'll test a few options before fall hits. Your point about the Marlin Spike Hitch is something I hadn't seen before. Is that user error the main reason Whoopie slings can slip or are they generally less secure in wet weather too?
cougarmeat
Well-known member
Cactuar6, both webbing and Whoopie (or UCR cord) suspensions offer continuous adjustment.
Forgetting that the Whoopie sling loop goes over the knot and NOT on the toggle isn't why the sling would slip. It's why the toggle would BREAK!
Slippage is because of too short a bury length in the construction of the whoopie sling (many are homemade), or not milking the bury so it grabs. There are other dynamics at play. Like if there is no tension on the whoopie sling (no one in the hammock), the bury might loosen up. So you check these things before you get in the hammock.
I went through my whoopie sling phase while I was learning to make Amsteel accessories (soft shackles, dog bone, loops). Some people have no problem with whoopie slings and think they are the cat's meow. That's fine. Used correctly, they are lightweight, a small package, and work in normal three-season camping weather.
I prefer the simplicity and security of a daisy chain or webbing. And when I used a whoopie sling, instead of putting the loop behind the knot (NOT on the toggle) of the Marlin Spike Hitch, I put a carabiner in the hitch instead of a toggle and clipped the whoopie into that. Why? Because when you are camping with others who aren't "into it" as much as you are, and you don't want to lie awake at night wondering if they checked the loop location before they got into their hammock, you minimize the chances for user error.
After the Whoopie sling came the UCR. It's a whoopie sling without the large loop. That is, instead of being made with one continuous piece of Amsteel - an eye splice at one end and a large loop circling back to bury in itself - the UCR is TWO separate pieces of Amsteel (sometimes two different diameters, 7/64 and ⅛). Each end has an eye splice; the tail of one goes into the bury of the other. Fancier designs add a sort of "grabber" cinch, so if a slip starts, the grab restores the tension. YouTube videos show that easier than words.
Forgetting that the Whoopie sling loop goes over the knot and NOT on the toggle isn't why the sling would slip. It's why the toggle would BREAK!
Slippage is because of too short a bury length in the construction of the whoopie sling (many are homemade), or not milking the bury so it grabs. There are other dynamics at play. Like if there is no tension on the whoopie sling (no one in the hammock), the bury might loosen up. So you check these things before you get in the hammock.
I went through my whoopie sling phase while I was learning to make Amsteel accessories (soft shackles, dog bone, loops). Some people have no problem with whoopie slings and think they are the cat's meow. That's fine. Used correctly, they are lightweight, a small package, and work in normal three-season camping weather.
I prefer the simplicity and security of a daisy chain or webbing. And when I used a whoopie sling, instead of putting the loop behind the knot (NOT on the toggle) of the Marlin Spike Hitch, I put a carabiner in the hitch instead of a toggle and clipped the whoopie into that. Why? Because when you are camping with others who aren't "into it" as much as you are, and you don't want to lie awake at night wondering if they checked the loop location before they got into their hammock, you minimize the chances for user error.
After the Whoopie sling came the UCR. It's a whoopie sling without the large loop. That is, instead of being made with one continuous piece of Amsteel - an eye splice at one end and a large loop circling back to bury in itself - the UCR is TWO separate pieces of Amsteel (sometimes two different diameters, 7/64 and ⅛). Each end has an eye splice; the tail of one goes into the bury of the other. Fancier designs add a sort of "grabber" cinch, so if a slip starts, the grab restores the tension. YouTube videos show that easier than words.
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cougarmeat
Well-known member
You will lose a lot of gear weight switching out the Python straps. But if you are just carrying your gear from the car to the campsite, it's not much of a benefit.
For me, the Python straps are the simplest; also, the heaviest. But remember, we are talking ounces, not pounds. Your slings - either the Whoopie Sling with it's big loop, or the URC, with it's eye splice at each end, will be the lightest, but you'll deal with a "bury" - which is not much of a problem on a warm summer day. Maybe not so much fun in freezing rain.
Cinch buckles seem a good compromise. The webbing/buckle combo is usually lighter weight that Python straps (ENO's version are called Atlas Straps) and carabiner. They give a continuous adjustment like the slings.
I'm sure I'll switch over to webbing eventually. But for now, I have a bit of an investment in my older Python straps and the lighter-weight daisy chain (like from DutchWare) with its 3-inch increment. I'd only gain a slight advantage by switching over.
For me, the Python straps are the simplest; also, the heaviest. But remember, we are talking ounces, not pounds. Your slings - either the Whoopie Sling with it's big loop, or the URC, with it's eye splice at each end, will be the lightest, but you'll deal with a "bury" - which is not much of a problem on a warm summer day. Maybe not so much fun in freezing rain.
Cinch buckles seem a good compromise. The webbing/buckle combo is usually lighter weight that Python straps (ENO's version are called Atlas Straps) and carabiner. They give a continuous adjustment like the slings.
I'm sure I'll switch over to webbing eventually. But for now, I have a bit of an investment in my older Python straps and the lighter-weight daisy chain (like from DutchWare) with its 3-inch increment. I'd only gain a slight advantage by switching over.
Thanks @cougarmeat for the breakdown of the pros and cons. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
LowTech
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- May 4, 2025
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I'm the other side of that. Around camp I'll use anything, daisy chains, carabineers, ratchet straps, ect, ect, but if I'm packing things on my bike, kayak, or back, I go w/ short tree huggers and a full dyneema and UCR suspension. Have been using UCRs for a few years constant and I'm totally sold on them. Just started field testing a new single-line suspension that lets me carry tree huggers or straps that are just long enough to wrap the tree and everything else is one single line that the hammock hangs from.
We finally got out for our trip near Geneva a couple of weeks ago to test the suspension systems. As predicted, the buckle setup was much more intuitive for my coworker than the whoopie slings were. That's making me re-evaluate the hammock choice for him.
cougarmeat
Well-known member
I've posted it in other topics, but don't see it here - the Python straps and Atlas straps had about a 5 to 6 inch loop or "step". Before I switched to Daisy Chain from Dutchware, which was lighter and had a 3-inch step, I made a 6-inch Amsteal loop that I could fold over in the Python or Atlas loops. It would give me a 3-inch step.
Note that if you have a structural ridgeline on your hammock, that step distance isn't so important because the ridgeline keeps the hammock at your preferred sag distance. And if your hang angle is a little flatter than 30°, the stress is transferred to the Amsteel ridgeline, not the stitching on the hammock.
What is Amsteel? You could call Amsteel "woven rope". It's available in many Marine supply stores and from online hammock vendors. A common size is 7/64th inches. Using tools like a small knitting needle to open the weave, you can make a variety of useful accessories (loops, dogbones, whoopie slings, UCR's).
What is a structural ridgeline? If your hammock has a built-in bugnet, it already has a structural ridgeline that limits the distances between the ends of the hammock when it is set up. That way, you don't tear the bugnet, which is sized for the hammock hung at the 30° angle.
If your hammock doesn't have a ridgeline, you can make one. First, you need to find the "sweet spot" sag for your hammock. Then measure the end-to-end distance and, using some cord, make a line that connects from one end of the hammock to the other - effectively a long measuring stick, except it's cordage.
You can leave the cord on the hammock permanently or remove it once the hammock is hung. You'd attach one end to your tree, then the other end, so that the line is just snug. Of course, there's an adjustment for hammock height above ground, etc. So much easier to show than describe.
What makes is "structural" is that if the cord (7/64ths) is made from Amsteel, it will hold over 1000 lbs. So the link from one tree, to the hammock's connection loop, to the ridgeline, to the other hammock end, to the other tree, will clearly hold your weight. And you can relax your attention to the hang angle just a bit (if shallower than 30°) because the Amsteel can deal with the stress.
If you use a weaker cord, even just string, you can still use it as a long "measuring stick". Attach it to the hammock to get the end-to-end distance right, hang the hammock, and then remove the cord. Because it won't hold much extra force, unlike a structural ridgeline, you'll want to keep your hang angle as close to 30° as possible.
Note that if you have a structural ridgeline on your hammock, that step distance isn't so important because the ridgeline keeps the hammock at your preferred sag distance. And if your hang angle is a little flatter than 30°, the stress is transferred to the Amsteel ridgeline, not the stitching on the hammock.
What is Amsteel? You could call Amsteel "woven rope". It's available in many Marine supply stores and from online hammock vendors. A common size is 7/64th inches. Using tools like a small knitting needle to open the weave, you can make a variety of useful accessories (loops, dogbones, whoopie slings, UCR's).
What is a structural ridgeline? If your hammock has a built-in bugnet, it already has a structural ridgeline that limits the distances between the ends of the hammock when it is set up. That way, you don't tear the bugnet, which is sized for the hammock hung at the 30° angle.
If your hammock doesn't have a ridgeline, you can make one. First, you need to find the "sweet spot" sag for your hammock. Then measure the end-to-end distance and, using some cord, make a line that connects from one end of the hammock to the other - effectively a long measuring stick, except it's cordage.
You can leave the cord on the hammock permanently or remove it once the hammock is hung. You'd attach one end to your tree, then the other end, so that the line is just snug. Of course, there's an adjustment for hammock height above ground, etc. So much easier to show than describe.
What makes is "structural" is that if the cord (7/64ths) is made from Amsteel, it will hold over 1000 lbs. So the link from one tree, to the hammock's connection loop, to the ridgeline, to the other hammock end, to the other tree, will clearly hold your weight. And you can relax your attention to the hang angle just a bit (if shallower than 30°) because the Amsteel can deal with the stress.
If you use a weaker cord, even just string, you can still use it as a long "measuring stick". Attach it to the hammock to get the end-to-end distance right, hang the hammock, and then remove the cord. Because it won't hold much extra force, unlike a structural ridgeline, you'll want to keep your hang angle as close to 30° as possible.
cougarmeat
Well-known member
>You'd attach one end to your tree, then the other end, so that the [ridgeline] line is just snug.
That line might have been confusing. I was talking about attaching the hammock suspension to the tree, not the structural ridgeline. The ridgeline goes from the end-loop at one hammock end to the end-loop at the other hammock end so that it "sets" the end-to-end distance of the hammock, which determines the sag. The tree suspension connects to those same loops, so there is a link from the tree to the suspension line, to the ridgeline. The hammock hangs off the ridgeline, so it doesn't incur any pull from the suspension
That line might have been confusing. I was talking about attaching the hammock suspension to the tree, not the structural ridgeline. The ridgeline goes from the end-loop at one hammock end to the end-loop at the other hammock end so that it "sets" the end-to-end distance of the hammock, which determines the sag. The tree suspension connects to those same loops, so there is a link from the tree to the suspension line, to the ridgeline. The hammock hangs off the ridgeline, so it doesn't incur any pull from the suspension
